Jean-Marc Boillot - Montagny Premier Cru 2020 75cl
Winery: Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot
Grape : 100% Chardonnay
Region : France / Bourgogne / Côte de Beaune / Montagny
Wine Style: Dry white
Alcohol Content: 13%
Food Pairing: Mixed salads, sushis, poultry and veal in cream sauce, creamy risotto with meat, poultry or fish and goat cheeses.
This domaine has been known for many years to be among the earliest pickers, with a policy of harvesting based on acidity levels as the key criteria. It is therefore no surprise that in a vintage where the decision of when to pick was crucial, they have excelled. Indeed, 2020 represents their earliest-ever harvest, beginning in the Côte d’Or on the 20th of August, beating by three days the previous record set in 2003. Despite this, the 2020 wines bear no resemblance to their 2003 counterparts.
Lydie describes the 2020 vintage conditions as “extreme but not excessive” – an important distinction to make. The weather was warm from March onwards, with flowering taking place in May, almost a month in advance. Whereas 2003 saw enormous heat spikes, 2020 was simply very warm and dry without ever reaching the excessive temperatures above the mid-30s. A further key difference is a week of rainfall which mercifully fell in August and unblocked the vines, given the freshness and balance that is evident in the wines.
Lydie and François have been rewarded for their decision to pick early with a wonderful range of citrus-fruited white wines which display perfect balance and will doubtless age magnificently. Each terroir is clearly identifiable. Volumes are broadly the same as in 2019, with the exception of the Montagny, where the crop is around half the level of the previous year. Sadly, the picture appears even bleaker for this cuvée – and indeed the rest of the cellar – in 2021.